DesertHawks.org

I burnt up 800 psi setting (fucking up) up the air rig and have 1000 psi left. Such a waste. I have put about 10 mags through it plus all of the fucking around... So, 1500+ shots on 1200 psi. Kind of on track for what my expectations are.

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You budget for a nice solid set of tournament locks?

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"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking"

The regulator has a built it tournament lock.

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Redline Firebase Regulator Tournament Lock - Proper Locking Method: https://youtu.be/2uZQhe87tU0

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That's pretty fancy! I dig it.
Just to be clear, I don't think your a douche. You may take it as a mark of pride that you can bark but I know all about your soft side too. Your level of 'puking all things HPA' onto us has to do with keeping your mind busy and your excitement with it. I just want you to be aware that it becomes really easy to turn that gas up and in the heat of the moment even the most level headed of us finds the internal justification to do so. When I get mine I'll simply have to remove the option by locking it. That way when I throw a tantrum I dont react with it.

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"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking"

It's just as easy to switch an upper gearbox on an ICS. I built one with a 130 spring and a new nozzle the other day that shoots 400 with .30's. I could very well do all of this now, and teach others to do it. Just because I theorize it and put it into practice doesn't mean I will field it.

I have no intent to nor will I allow a teammate to do it. Especially out of mallace.

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*UPDATED*
Started my SMP build last night...

Lessons learned.

So far, after close observations.... it's a very simplified system. Engine (really just some machined parts, nozzle) and a pneumatic solenoid. Trigger board is just a few microswitches (basically on/off switch). Fire Control Unit (FCU) is basically an Arduino Microcontroller with an Atmel chip onboard. All it is, the trigger is your input into the FCU, the output is the solenoid (releasing air). Very efficient on battery as each trigger pull draws microamps, hence it can last thousands of rounds before the next battery charge on your 7.4v 500mah lipo.

SMP Installs
Base: Cyma CM048 (02C Gearbox Shell), pretty much you'll either give up or need a donor gearbox shell for this project.
It would also be wise to hook up everything from the box to your air supply and test out the functionality before you drop the SMP into the gearbox.

1) V3 SMP is not a direct drop in (as TJC described before). Have to modify gearbox by dremel-ing some material away...



2) v3 Motor cage modification. Material will have to be removed in order to compensate for the macroline drop for air supply
Used a 11/32" drill bit to mod my pistol grip for macroline drop.



3) SMP Trigger Board assembly: a tiny phillips head screw is needed to mount the circuit board assembly. This screw can be obtained from the old trigger assembly.


4) Tuning: Have a chrono handy and a loaded mag with desired bbs weight. Pretty straight forward. Don't over pressure your reg (+120psi). This video helps out on tuning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhcI9ZznhV0. I loaded mines with a few different bbs and weight to test out my baseline.
My main baseline was the Laser Dot BBs purchased at Disruptive. Very consistent.


For LC and their chrono stations TJC mentioned they maybe using Golden Balls Bio .30g. I tested this too. Kind of all over the place... I posted another thread on different bbs tested out on this setup.


5)Hopup: Installed a Modify Ryusoku Flat Hop in. Let see how this works out. Flat nub, bucking is smooth inside. I know TJC has some Maple Leaf concoction in his hop up.

Air Supply
Regulator is a Redline Firebase. With the standard air tank, the output on the nozzle (of air tank) is about 600-800psi (unless you got some Super Low Pressure [SLP] airtanks, which outputs up to 300 psi). As the air goes into the Firebase reg, the pressure is stepped down to between 40-120psi (SMP operating range). If the reg is tuned too high (150psi), there's a check valve on the reg that will automatically bleed pressure.

Lessons learned when putting the reg together:
Take your time putting the fittings together. Use teflon tape or plumbers dope to seal the threads. After all the fittings are on, turn on the pressure and apply some soap/water spray around the threads for leaks. My Ninja Air Supply Adapter (ASA) is pretty shitty as I have a very slow leak (Where it says open/close). Keep in mind, paintball ASA are the exact same as the Ninja ASA so it can be used.



Firebase Whitepaper (theory of operation): http://www.redlineairsoft.com/index.php/air-systems-accessories/product/download/file_id-58
Firebase Manual (maintenance): http://www.redlineairsoft.com/index.php/air-systems-accessories/product/download/file_id-98

Tournament Lockouts
Previous discussions were about lock outs for regulator and FCU.
The firebase has a built in locking mechanism. Zipties used (see the silver cap in image above). For FCU, you can either get fancy and go buy a specific FCU Lockout (http://natechdev.com/?product_cat=tournament-locks), or build your own with a 10 round paintball tube (tampon protector sleeve) by trimming it down a few inches and add two holes at the top for ziptie lockout... According to trent, the tube w/fcu will fit in the AK.



"Locked Out" with ziptie


Compatibility
V3 or V2... Same Engine, same FCU.

V2
Only thing on the different between both versions is,
-V2 has a buffer buffer adapter
-14in cable assembly (between FCU and Solenoid)
-v2 specific trigger board (the microswitch position on the circuit board differs for the trigger assembly)
-Nozzle.

V3
-No buffer adapter
-12in cable assembly (between FCU and Solenoid)
-v3 Specific trigger board
-nozzle

I don't know about the direct drop in capability for the v2 gearbox but one day I may try (probably as this SMP was designed, the tolerances were for the V2 gearbox. Hopefully the Hydra engine designs have addressed the v3 tolerance issues).
Website to source extra SMP parts, http://www.ampedairsoft.com/wolverine-smp-nozzles-and-parts/

Nozzles = $21
FCU = $65
Trigger boards = $20
Buffer Adapter = $13

Also, digging around on the community, looks like Wolverine will be introducing a bluetooth FCU (should be compatable with the SMP and Hydra) where you can tune your dwell and ROF via your Android or iPhone... Kinda makes the FCU lockout pointless [edit: rumor has it the bluetooth connections have built in tournament locks]...

Air Refill Station
Given we are gearing up for LC, and if more guys on the team are running HPA and we end up with a Scuba Tank on hand, I have a fill station handy for this purpose...


More to come later.

Very good detail Tom.

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excellent detail, thank you. Did yo happen to crack it open and get internal photos? I managed to source the solenoids some time ago for a half started attempt at the kuba hpa engine, Im interested in seeing how close the wolverine is to that design. Arduino!? Now your talking my language son. Too bad its not needed to do much more then open and close a solenoid, what a waste of hardware.

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"If everyone is thinking alike, someone isn't thinking"

Nope, no internal shots. Maybe after LC when I feel like doing a cleaning job, I'll strip and measure the internals.

CYMA V3 gearbox issues.

Ok, so I have gotten some mixed results with my SMP build and I am sure Tom is getting the same. At the chrono it performs perfectly. At the range, not so much. I have poured many hours and spare parts into this gun and finally concluded that the 02B and the 02C V3 shells will not work with the SMP. Yes I did use both. The issue is with the mount point for the cylinder head. It is further back on the CYMA shell then any other brand I know. While this is not an issue for the AEG, the rear of the cylinder window mus be modified to allow the SMP to be installed. This makes the nozzle not penetrate into the hop up unit far enough creating air blow by and terrible inconsistencies.

I have had may AK's over the years and have several shells laying around. I used an ICS shell last night and it literally dropped right in without any modification. I only dremeled a small amount from the top so the bolt's guide rod would secure the dust cover properly. Although I am still tweaking it (there is not much variance between too much and not enough hop), the gun functions perfectly.

Also I ordered the scuba tank this morning.

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I've been thinking about getting another smp. Miss the performance of it. Trent, what size tank are you using? It sounds like your getting terrible efficiency. You should be getting close to 4000 shots if your tank is a 62ci 3000psi tank.

48/3000... I was bleeding through the feed hole though.

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With a 48/3000 you should be getting close to 3k shots.

DP filed my empty 80cf Scuba tank for $10. A chart I found online says that you will get diminishing returns filling empty bottles from the first one, and by bottle 20, the filled bottle will be less than 1200 psi. So, I suggest that everyone own two bottles and "top" off 3000 psi bottles when they get down to 1500 psi or so.

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